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t-shitrs... seriously am I posting this?

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stoney66
Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 10:54 am Reply with quote
Joined: 05 Jul 2004 Posts: 209 Location: Cola, SC
Never thought I would try doing t-shirts, but a friend of mine wants to do some for himself and I was all "sure lets try it out".

Just a few questions for you guys who have done this before. I plan on printing on dark colored shirts, so I know I will need a certain type of plastisol for doing this. Is there a good place to order this online? I checked DickBlick, they have Union but I'm not sure if I should get this one: http://www.dickblick.com/zz432/08/ .
I know about the heat cure mess and have that covered, as well what screens to use.

Thanks any help would be useful.

~larry
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badgoldfish
Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:56 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 20 Sep 2005 Posts: 406 Location: kalamazoo-michigan
i use union ink every day and like it very much , they're the only family owned ink maker left, which i think is very cool, i buy mine from the wholesaler i get all my shirts from, prices are about the same, you could check their website www.unionink.com , they may sell direct? or could point you in a direction, also if looking for help/tips check www.screenprinters.net, they have a great printing forum, and may save you some headaches.
-have fun--ryan

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www.goldfishprints.net
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Fool's Gold
Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 am Reply with quote
Joined: 10 Mar 2005 Posts: 284 Location: Ontario Canada
Union Ink Bright Cotton White Ink
PLUS 9000 Curable Reducer
110/157 mesh screen
flash unit of some sort.
print flash print

Union Maxopake is a good ink for printing colours directly on black.

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IRONCLAD GRAPHICS: Custom screen printed posters, apparel and stickers.
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stoney66
Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:36 am Reply with quote
Joined: 05 Jul 2004 Posts: 209 Location: Cola, SC
Cool, so you think I'd be OK using that Maxopake from Dick Blick then?
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Fool's Gold
Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 4:12 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 10 Mar 2005 Posts: 284 Location: Ontario Canada
probably. I assume it's Union. Other brands are usually fine, I am just sued to the way that Union ink works. If you have a drill press I recommend mixing the ink for awhile, cause it's pretty thick, but gets smoother. Reducer really helps, like a lot

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IRONCLAD GRAPHICS: Custom screen printed posters, apparel and stickers.
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emoxfag
Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 3:03 am Reply with quote
Joined: 31 Oct 2005 Posts: 80
max opaque is fucking THICK. i suggest buying a thinner white plastisol from union and mixing the two. two part thinner stuff to one part maxopaque.
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stoney66
Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:21 am Reply with quote
Joined: 05 Jul 2004 Posts: 209 Location: Cola, SC
Thanks guys!
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Fool's Gold
Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 10 Mar 2005 Posts: 284 Location: Ontario Canada
emoxfag wrote:
max opaque is fucking THICK. i suggest buying a thinner white plastisol from union and mixing the two. two part thinner stuff to one part maxopaque.


1) Mix the ink for 5 minutes with an electric drill
2) add a spoonful or two of Soft Hand Base into the ink
3) add appropriate amounts of curable reducer

that should render the Maxopaque less Thick. 99% of plastisol is not designed to be printed direct from the can, and since they are often overloaded with pigment there's no need to use it as such. Due to the increased pigment loads, you can 'cut' the ink with a % of soft hand base. That's unpigmented ink, it will make it creamy and make it significantly softer when cured. THe curable reducer should thin the ink, allow it to flow through higher meshes as well as reducing the afterflash tack and prevent it from sticking to the back of the next screen. I don't recommend cutting yellow ink like this, yellow is hard to cover black with so adding softhand will add too much transparency.

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emoxfag
Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 4:35 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 31 Oct 2005 Posts: 80
oh cool. thanks for the info on that.
im just going by what ive done in the past.
ive found using the maxopaque as a base coat with and 85 screen works really well. i never realy use reducer... im scurred of it.
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Fool's Gold
Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:38 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 10 Mar 2005 Posts: 284 Location: Ontario Canada
Just get the PLUS-9000 CURABLE reducer. You can add as much as you want and have no trouble with curing. 85 mesh is what I use for doing numbers, print/flash/print that and you are set. I do lots of shirts with Maxopake through a 157 and double hit the design.

the MIXopake mixing kit is really good too. Pantone colours that are just like Maxopake, or you can base it down for white shirts

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