| SkullandBonesSkateboards.com Forum Index » SKATEBOARD ART » 1-shot lettering enamel - anyone used this on a deck? |
|
Page 1 of 1 |
|
| Author |
Message |
| Rob36 |
 Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 11:23 am |
 |
|
|
Joined: 31 Aug 2016
Posts: 26
|
| Hi guys. Im planning to put some artwork on a blank stained deck. Im a signwriter by trade so Ive got loads of 1-shot lettering enamel. Its oil based paint. Ive only ever used it on painted steel before, but its Really good stuff, dries very smooth and opaque. Im hoping to use this stuff, but havent laid paint on a deck before and would want any bleeding horrors!! Anyone used it? |
|
|
| Back to top |
 
|
|
|
| Herwig |
| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 11:43 am |
|
|
ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 25 Apr 2010
Posts: 3675
Location: Hicksville :-), Lower Bavaria
|
Lux might know.  |
_________________
Tricks evolve,
spots change,
trends fade, but...
skateboarding is forever! |
|
| Back to top |
|
| vortrekker |
| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 3:44 pm |
|
|
ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 119
Location: Texas
|
Watch that you seal the wood in the areas you want to paint or you will get some bleed. Otherwise best paint you can use.
Since you are a sign painter and use the shit daily, I have a question: How the hell do you get your cans to re-seal? I keep getting drying cans.
I mask off and caulk any areas I want to touch up. Light rub of acrylic caulk over the line of tap and board will give you a razor sharp separation. One shot running through an airbrush works like a champ and is durable. |
_________________
If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
| Rob36 |
| Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2016 5:04 pm |
|
|
|
Joined: 31 Aug 2016
Posts: 26
|
| Hiya mate, thanks for the advice - sounds positive! Yeah, I've had problems with 1 shot cans skinning up too. All I do is use a little plastic ladle to measure out the paint I use into a disposible cup so not to get loads of paint round the edges of the can. The occasional one still does skin over though, but I reckon it's usually coz of dried paint around the can edge that does it. Agreed regarding 1shot shooting well through an airbrush - apart from metallic silver! That always clogs my brush up! Regarding using the caulk - your basically rubbing caulk over the edges of your masked up area to seal the edge yes? Just want to make sure I'm understanding right as I don't usually work with stained wood! |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| vortrekker |
| Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2016 7:00 pm |
|
|
ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 119
Location: Texas
|
| Yep. That is exactly right. I use a product called tru oil to seal the wood. I usually sand carefully with forms made from balsa wood in the exact shape I need. wrap them with light paper, 600 or so. Mask off and paint away. never shot silver metallic, but will remember. Thanks for the heads up. |
_________________
If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning... |
|
| Back to top |
|
| vortrekker |
| Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:44 pm |
|
|
ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 119
Location: Texas
|
| Hey Rob, What do you thin your one shot with? Thanks, Patrick |
_________________
If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
| Rob36 |
| Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 2:24 am |
|
|
|
Joined: 31 Aug 2016
Posts: 26
|
| Petrol! or turpentine. Most of the sign work I do is on cars used for UK banger racing and stock car racing, and the cars take a few knock so have a limited shelf life, so its just not worth using 1-shot thinners, which are very pricey. Petrol works great, and some even reckon adds a greater shine to the finish. Never had any probs with it affecting longevity either. |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| vortrekker |
| Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 6:22 am |
|
|
ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 119
Location: Texas
|
Thanks Rob, I will give it a try. Sometimes get problems with drag. Use One Shot in my job as well. One shot thinner works good as long as it is not too humid, Texas is humid most of the time... Our turpentine is shit. They have to put stuff in it so that stupid people can't claim it hurt them. The English stuff is different and better. We get it out of Australia. Will give the petrol a try. Thanks!
FWIW, we have painted the lettering tops and details back on some of the machine tools in our shop. Had no problems with durability. Got a local doing some tank paint lettering for me on a Harley. Would love to see some of the stuff you do on the cars. We use it at our shop for restoring wood grain and case labels. |
_________________
If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning... |
|
| Back to top |
|
| Rob36 |
| Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 5:22 am |
|
|
|
Joined: 31 Aug 2016
Posts: 26
|
Let me know how you get on with it bud 
The deck art Im planning may take a while to get on to - I havent even picked up a deck for it yet, although I do have the artwork planned & designed, Its a bit of a take on the SMA Julian Stranger 'lowrider' deck, which Ive always loved, but Ive used a US demo derby car instead, just coz of the contact racing connection really!
Heres a big album of some of the cars Ive signed - the more recent work is towards the bottom of the album. Hopefully you'll be able to see it, Its a 'public' album on Facebook so cant see why not... Let me know what you think!
https://www.facebook.com/rob.36msm/med...&uploaded=136 |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
