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| Everide |
 Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 9:55 pm |
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Joined: 16 Apr 2006
Posts: 81
Location: MidWest
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So i've been reading this forum on and off for a couple months now and decided that I want to start printing boards.
I'm currently in Peru having some clothing manufactured for a brand I am starting up. I was planning on having someone else print boards for me but I would like to give it a shot myself.
OK, So now comes the time where the newby asks some stupid questions:
1. I've looked around on the forum for dimensions for a tip to tail screen setup. The only thing I found was http://www.skateandannoy.com/features...ng/screenrig.html
Which isn't exactly it. Anyone have any links or dimensions for the actual screen frame for a tip to tail? Or is it trial and error? I'll probably be doing a flip style board that has a lot of concave to it.
2. Should you have the screen sit off the board by 1/8th of an inch? Why is this exactly?
3. How many decks can be done with Nazdar 2700 before it dries up. I thought I read somewhere that it was good for small runs only.
These are the products what I am planning to order for when I return from my trip:
-ULANO QX1 Emulsion
-Nazdar 2700 with retarder or 9500(with aqualube)
-230 mesh count screen
Has anyone printed with 9500, i know skinny did because thats where i first read about it. Will the board slide as well as it does with 2700?
Any advice would be great
Everide |
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| Everide |
| Posted: Thu May 11, 2006 12:31 pm |
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Joined: 16 Apr 2006
Posts: 81
Location: MidWest
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OK,
So, I've got my screen frame built. I got some speedball inks just to try it out before I spend $100 on a gallon for the 2700. Then I got the diazo emulsion.
I'll try to post pics of the screen after its finished here.
So, if anyone has any answers to questions 2 & 3......
thanks,
Everide |
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| phunka |
| Posted: Thu May 11, 2006 1:03 pm |
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 16
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You don't want the screen to close, or too far from the surface your printing on.
I'm not sure that it have to be exactly 1/8 of an inch, but you do want some space between the too. This with correct squeege pressure gives you a nice, crisp edge.
if it's too close, too much ink will get pushed through, and it will smudge. |
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| Fool's Gold |
| Posted: Thu May 11, 2006 3:30 pm |
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Joined: 10 Mar 2005
Posts: 284
Location: Ontario Canada
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| QX1 will work with solvents, it won't work too well with waterbased inks (I print waterbased with it and it's alright, but it will start to fall apart) |
_________________
IRONCLAD GRAPHICS: Custom screen printed posters, apparel and stickers. |
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| Everide |
| Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 2:25 pm |
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Joined: 16 Apr 2006
Posts: 81
Location: MidWest
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Ok,
So I got the screen built. I used a metal frame with two parts to clamp the screen down. The metal was thick, two sheets of 18 gauge steel. I made the first part of the frame 1 inch wide and then welded a 1/2 inch wide piece on top of it (leaving half the 1 inch wide part exposed). Then the second part was 1/2 inch wide that went around the other 1/2 inch part and covered the other part of the 1 inch. The screen went inbetween the two and holes were drilled evenly and I used glue and rivets to hold them together. If that makes any sense. Kinda hard to explain. Then I bent the metal frame to the wooden frame and screwed it on.
I have pictures coming soon here  My bro has them on his digital.
The big problem I ran into was the actual printing. It turned out runny/blotchy. This was my first time ever screenprinting......besides a high school project years back. I know its going to be tough starting out trying to print on decks, but I think it will be worth it in the end.
Does anyone have any techniques on how to pull the squeegy? I was thinking it might help to cut the concaved curve of the skateboard into the squeegy for the middle section and then have a regular squeegy for the tail and tip. That almost seems like it might do more damage though.
Any suggestions?
JZ |
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| skinny |
| Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 2:52 pm |
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Joined: 12 Sep 2004
Posts: 2706
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| You need to develop your "Hook" technique. Also learn about flood coat method. Those speedball inks will never give a good print. |
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| Everide |
| Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 6:24 pm |
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Joined: 16 Apr 2006
Posts: 81
Location: MidWest
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Hey Skinny,
I tried the flood tecnique. What exactly is the "hook" technique? I'm assuming its pulling your squeegy in the shape of a hook down into the concave of the board?
JZ |
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| skinny |
| Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 8:46 pm |
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Joined: 12 Sep 2004
Posts: 2706
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| You hook your fingers around the edges of the squeegy while pulling. It makes the edge conform with the correct pressure. |
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| skinny |
| Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 8:56 pm |
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Joined: 12 Sep 2004
Posts: 2706
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| skinny |
| Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 8:56 pm |
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Joined: 12 Sep 2004
Posts: 2706
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