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| Jedi_deangelis |
 Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2001 8:36 pm |
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Joined: 08 Nov 2001
Posts: 2830
Location: Kingston, ON
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Have any of you guys tried restoring an old deck to it's original glory? I have a Frankie Hill Bulldog Deck that's in good shape structurally but the graphics are kinda messed up. They're re-doable though with some artistic ability and a sticker to work from(which I fortunately have).
It has some stickers on it though and I'd like to remove them. Will this rip the paint off? I'm sure the product "goo gone" will remove the sticky mess inevitably left behind, but will it stain the wood or leave a mark of it's own? Will there be any problems with the new paint adhering to the wood finish?
The older 90's Powell decks have a lacquer finish and I'd have to re-apply a lacquer spray over it again to give it a full body sheen rather than a roughed up tail and nose. Will that bugger up the new paint? Any advice on what kind of paint to use? I'm thinking acrylics myself.
If there's anybody out there who's tried to restore a deck and has some advice and "do's and don'ts" I'd be glad to hear from you.
Matt |
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| jibaridge |
| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2001 9:11 pm |
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Joined: 16 Oct 2001
Posts: 180
Location: Maine, USA
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#1. I've never restored a deck, so basically I'm talking out my a$$. 
Do you know anything about silkscreening? That might be your best bet (sand the graphics off and put new ones on) if you really want to put the time/effort into it, I think that would have the best results (though awful time consuming)
If you want to just clean it up I'd use either enamel (or oilpaint), enamel would be your best bet, I think acrylic (being rubber based) would get messed up by the clear-coat enamel? Though oil might be messed up too. Enamel is probally the best choice.
The stickers.. I'd just peal them off as slow as possible, if it starts to peal the paint stop, or just peal it off and re-paint it afterwards, whatever.. I'd just use my thumb to get the residue off, though it will take a while its better than staining/oilspotting your deck.
Anyway you look at it, if you want to get it back to almost factory shape its going to take a lot of time/effort. Don't start it unless you'll finish it, that'd be a waste of a good board.
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| Jedi_deangelis |
| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2001 2:03 am |
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Joined: 08 Nov 2001
Posts: 2830
Location: Kingston, ON
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Nah nah dude. Acrylic is water based, not rubber based. Plus the finish is lacquer so oils would bugger the whole finish up. Oils also take years to dry. With acrylics you can paint, blow dry, and keep painting.
I could see using model paints. They come in so many colours that a good colour match might be possible.
The graphic is still OKish.. I'd say 60% there. Silkscreening is nuts. You'd have to draw the graphic and then get a template for every different colour you use and have the deck PERFECTLY aligned each time you lay down a colour. Let's not forget the fact I'd have to build a silk screen first.
Sticker gum wont come off with just using a fingernail after 10 years of being there. You've gotta use some kinda product.
I think I'll test the goo-gone on the top graphic and see if it does anything to the paint or leaves an oil stain. Plus maybe using the product and then quickly wiping it away with a wet rag to ensure it doesn't sink into the wood. Hopefully the lacquer sealant they use would prevent any wood seepage and consequential staining.
Then again I could be totally wrong. Anybody actually ever try restoring a deck? Was it a total success like Star Wars or a total failure like Howard the Duck?
Matt |
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| THE GRIME |
| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2001 5:36 am |
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Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 404
Location: Trying to Break Free
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| i'm pretty hand w/ the atistic/crafty stuff and have successfully restored boards. goo gone has never fucked up any base colors(board paint) but it WILL smear the screen printed graphics! use very sparingly on those. as for staining the wood- if its a stained board it shouldnt unless the clearcoat is gone. if it is thats your experiment. i've done touch ups w/ acrylics and paintpens. model paint should work but be aware that its usually a high gloss- which screen printing ink isnt and wasnt. as for the oils comment-oils that take that long to dry are usually cut w/ linseed and other mediums. those types of oils do not concern this application in the least bit. my advice when doing it is to figure out how nice you want it and then to figure out how to get to that place. if you need it really nice be ready to put in a lot more time than you think! but i am a perfectionist and therefore suffer under a critical eye. good luck! |
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| Jedi_deangelis |
| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2001 6:22 pm |
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Joined: 08 Nov 2001
Posts: 2830
Location: Kingston, ON
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Thanks for the advice! I'm a perfectionist too so I'll be working on this puppy (forgive the pun since it's a Frankie Hill deck) for many long hours.
I plan on re-spraying it with lacquer when it's all done to give it a sealant and a bit of a shine. I don't know if model paint being glossy will be a big deal or not. Flat might actually look worse than glossy. I think the main thing will be trying to get a colour match.
thanks again.
Matt |
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| Jedi_deangelis |
| Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2001 3:27 am |
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Joined: 08 Nov 2001
Posts: 2830
Location: Kingston, ON
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Ta DA!!! I have discovered the secret of restoring the look of old black boneite.
I just recently won a used Welinder street model on ebay. It's a beauty but the black was all faded grey and looking pretty lame. There are a few scratches but I think I can fix them up... but how could I fix up all of the black that's grey?
Oh what to do? What to do?!!
Here's what you do! Oil the board! yeah!! It had one sticker on the tail and I was using "goo gone" to take it off. It was taking a bit of the paint off so I wasn't too pleased but where it hit the grey bonite... it was suddenly restored to it's original glory!
Rather than potentially removing more paint by putting goo gone all over the board, I decided to experiment. You wont believe it but using a bit of olive oil on a piece of paper towel totally did the trick.
I'm totally serious!! If any of you have an old boneite deck where the finish is looking grey and old... rub some oil on it and it'll come out looking like it's brand new.
The Jedi Master has spoken.
Matt  |
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| Skarecrow |
| Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2001 8:21 am |
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Joined: 24 Oct 2001
Posts: 48
Location: Charlotte, NC
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| I'm glad to hear that Grime is a perfectionist, particularly for all his tattoo customers. If I'm ever in Frisco I'm coming to see you Grime. |
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| 74chris |
| Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2001 1:53 pm |
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Joined: 25 Oct 2001
Posts: 3363
Location: Nation's Capitol
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Another good thing for the drying out Bonite is pledge. I've been using that on a couple of boards for years. Just saturate the board, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then wipe off. The only down side is it smells like a big lemon for an hour or so.
Anybody ever restore boards using an airbrush? I have been wondering if I should give it a shot. |
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| Jedi_deangelis |
| Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2001 12:22 am |
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Joined: 08 Nov 2001
Posts: 2830
Location: Kingston, ON
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So my roomate saw how cool the Welinder is looking and he decided to give up his Cab bats deck to be restored.
First thing I did after taking the bolts off (rusted, stripped bolts that haven't moved since 1988 take a while to get off) was take the grip off.
Why?!! Why did I do that? I have a headache from goo-gone fumes, goop stuck to me that wont come off, and it took me 3 hours to get all the sticky crap off.
Advice to anybody restoring a deck... don't bother taking off griptape. You never see it and it's not worth the frustration!!
Matt |
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| 24-hour-pool-service |
| Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2001 1:44 am |
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Joined: 04 Dec 2001
Posts: 92
Location: Ohio USA
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Believe it or not the best thing to use to get the griptape residue or sticker residue off is lighter fluid. Either Zippo or Ronsonol, not BBQ lighter fluid. Also you should heat the griptape or sticker with a heat gun or blow dryer before peeling to reduce paint damage.
Jason and Nick |
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