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| hellconcave |
 Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 6:17 pm |
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Joined: 21 Feb 2005
Posts: 230
Location: sweden
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I printed some sweatshirts the other day together with some t-shirts (all black colors of the shirts and sweats) I have a white color at the bottom. The t-shirts came out really good and the sweatshirts looked good but as soon as they get out of my owen the print looks transparent. I even printed 4 layers of white with flash cure between all of the 4 but still dosent cover that good. It�s like the garment sucks up all the ink..
Any tips to make it cover? |
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| newrepublicsteve |
| Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 9:27 pm |
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Joined: 13 Nov 2004
Posts: 674
Location: Birmingham
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well did you increase the speed or lower the temp of your drier after the shirts?
I have had white ink evaporate on hoodies to where no matter how white I get it before it goes in it comes out faded...
just something you learn with experience |
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| hellconcave |
| Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:11 am |
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Joined: 21 Feb 2005
Posts: 230
Location: sweden
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| No I didnt but thanks for the tip I�ll try that later this week and see if that works! |
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| Fool's Gold |
| Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 9:26 am |
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Joined: 10 Mar 2005
Posts: 284
Location: Ontario Canada
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| Were they 100% cotton sweats or 50/50. If 50/50 did you use a low-bleed white to stop dye migration? Maybe the dye from thee hood is being absorbed into the white ink, making it appear like the ink is transparent. |
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IRONCLAD GRAPHICS: Custom screen printed posters, apparel and stickers. |
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| hellconcave |
| Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 9:40 am |
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Joined: 21 Feb 2005
Posts: 230
Location: sweden
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| ok, I think the are 80/20. No didnt use any low-bleed white, at least I dont think so, just the ordinary white I have when printing and mixing colors etc. How does this low-bleed color work, just a thicker plastisol? |
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| Sixman |
| Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:37 am |
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Joined: 06 Nov 2002
Posts: 84
Location: Austin, TX
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what mesh are you using? Ink & mesh make all the dif. Sounds like you are not getting enough ink down or using the wrong kind of ink.
We use Union MAXOPAKE (PADM-1027 Lo-Bleed White) as well as Unimatch MACH-1000. Both work great and require no flashing. We also use a 160 or a 180 mesh w/one squeegee hit. |
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| TRUpah |
| Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 2:18 pm |
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Joined: 31 May 2004
Posts: 345
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| no flashing huh what do you mean? like no flashing for this ink? it just air dries? imma little confused i have some of this stuff and was just wondering |
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| Sixman |
| Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 2:36 pm |
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Joined: 06 Nov 2002
Posts: 84
Location: Austin, TX
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Sorry - should be more clear!
What I mean is we can do white ink on dark apparel w/one pull of the squeegee and then cure the shirt in the oven. No need to lay down an underbase, flash and then hit again.
Make sense? |
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| TRUpah |
| Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 5:34 pm |
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Joined: 31 May 2004
Posts: 345
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| cool.... how DO you do the oven cure? i would like to know bro i tried it once and it didnt work out too well |
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| hellconcave |
| Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 6:28 pm |
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Joined: 21 Feb 2005
Posts: 230
Location: sweden
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I�m using plastisol colors from Sericol. The mesh I used at the moment was 43 mesh (europe)
Sixman, that color you were talking about do you use that for t-shirts aswell? Is that color thick in the consistense or does it flow easy? My ink feels very thick and really hard to get it into the garment.
I actually tried defstarsteve�s tip about increasing the speed and it wasnt as much bleed as before, but maybe I should get one of this lo-bleed white colors aswell. |
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