SkullandBonesSkateboards.com Forum Index » SKATEBOARD ART » Stenciling Decks |
Page 1 of 3 Goto page 1, 2, 3 Next |
|
Author |
Message |
inkfingur |
Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:49 pm |
|
|
Joined: 21 Feb 2005
Posts: 8
Location: Detroit Michigan
|
ok people. this is my first post. i wanted to drop in and ask a question about deck art in relation to stenciling. basicly i bought twenty blanks and im looking to make em totaly hot. i got some sweet designs im working on, but once i get em finished, im wondering the best way to execute getting them to the deck. so far i've come up with this plan
1. from illustrator to ledger size (11x14 paper) laminated
2. cut out stencil with exacto knife...(several sheets if more than one color)
3. paint with spray paint (god bless krylon)
4. cover with laquer
i realize this is a rudimentary listing of the process but if im missing an integral part of this let me know.. the decks im using are already finished blanks (some colored some natural). is it actualy nescissary to sand them even if they already if theyre paint dipped? when putting the clear coat on, is there any type that works better than others?
i also had wanted to do some hand drawn work with paint markers. i got a nice pack of sharpie paint markers and was windering if anyone has tried that. anyway, any info would be totaly appreciated. thanks you guys.
michael |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
oasis |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 12:26 am |
|
|
Joined: 28 Jun 2003
Posts: 364
Location: Hilo,Hawaii
|
I'm an amature compared to some of the other fellas here but...
You might also want to try clear overhead transparencies for your stencils. I havn't tried laminated paper but i know transparencies work well. Make sure they are not too thin or they'll rip.
I would hand sand the some of the veneer of the decks with fine grit sandpaper. It is probably not nescessary but it'll help the paint adhere better.
You might also want to get a light spray adhessive to keep the edges of your stencils down. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
modskin |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 9:50 am |
|
|
Joined: 29 Mar 2003
Posts: 2696
Location: Atlanta, GA
|
Give the back of each stencil a LIGHT coat of spray adhesive.. LET IT DRY before using the stencil.
IMO, transparencies are a pain in the ass. They're too thin and the paint will make them stick together if you don't watch it.
I cut stencils out of index paper with my image spray mounted to it. For a multi color stencil, I just print out the same image over and over at the same size and cut the different colors on each copy.
If you want stencil that last, you can get oil board, but it's expensive. A box of the stuff is $80 for 18"x24" sheets. Paint doesn't soak into it, though. Good stuff. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
sinart |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 10:30 am |
|
|
Joined: 26 Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Location: LA
|
If you are using an enamel paint, you don't have to sand before painting...enamel sticks well to any hard, flat, clean surface. Also, it's not necessary to clear-coat it afterwards if you are using a gloss paint...it will just make the deck heavier, and urethane is usually "sticky" to do board slides on (even though it's shiny, it can get gummy). The graphics WILL last just as long as screened ones, done this way.
I've tried the tranparencies, etc., and for me, they work ok when I want to do a stencil on grip tape, or a wall, and want to re-use them; but for detaied work on decks, it's all about the one-time-use frisket. Here are my newest examples:
 |
_________________ make your left brain suffer... |
|
Back to top |
|
305oldschool |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 11:12 am |
|
|
Joined: 03 Sep 2002
Posts: 2206
Location: Gainesville, FL
|
sinart wrote: it's all about the one-time-use frisket.
What's a friskit? Those decks look great! I heard that acetate is easy to work with because it adheres (even to fabric) and prevents bleeding. |
_________________ Wanted: Skull Skates Gang Green
Member #388 |
|
Back to top |
|
sinart |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 1:06 pm |
|
|
Joined: 26 Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Location: LA
|
frisket is a low-tack-backed semi-tranparent plastic that comes in rolls or sheets and is used for masking for airbrushing (it looks kinda like contact paper). it works like a dream once you figure out how to use it...but you can only use the stencil once. |
_________________ make your left brain suffer... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
childish gambino |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 1:06 pm |
|
|
Joined: 16 Oct 2004
Posts: 290
Location: Victoria, BC
|
Has anyone tried mac-tac? I have a whole role to practice with and was wondering if anyone has tried it. Do you guys think I would be able to peel it off and reuse it with some spray adhesive? What kind of spray adhesives are good to use? |
_________________ Trying is the first step towards failure. |
|
Back to top |
|
kevincar |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 9:22 pm |
|
|
Joined: 17 Feb 2005
Posts: 23
|
What i do is color copy my photo or drawing then I spray adhesive on the color copy then lye it on the deck. After that I exacto the edges to make it look sharper.Finally I spray a gloss over it. there is still something missing In my technique of designing boards any one know if varnish works on color prints, I tried it and it made the print bubble But I tink it was to much I just need to make the print imbed into thre board, make it part of the board rather then a piece of paper glued on the back. Any suggestions? |
|
|
Back to top |
|
zaboz |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 10:16 pm |
|
|
Joined: 15 Feb 2005
Posts: 314
Location: madison, wi
|
Damn Sinart, your stencils are badass!! Those yellow/red fades are really tight, are you using an airbrush or rattle can? I gotsa get me some frisket! |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
inkfingur |
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 11:08 pm |
|
|
Joined: 21 Feb 2005
Posts: 8
Location: Detroit Michigan
|
i just wanted to say thanks to all of you who replied. all the help is greatly appreciated. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|