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| lush702 |
 Posted: Tue Jul 23, 2002 10:36 am |
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Joined: 20 May 2002
Posts: 2206
Location: Gnashville TN
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I just got a semi thrashed HOSOI mini-hammerhead ($9.99 ...)- wanna stabilize the deterioration and set up as a rider...have NOS factory die cut grip on the way - but need to fill some holes/dings and slow down the delams on the nose and tail. Then, my thoughts are to give it a light sand and shoot a clear coat. Any input on products/techniques would be appreciated. I know this topic has been discussed, but can't seem to locate it on this board. Thanks!
[ This Message was edited by: LUSH702 on 2002-07-23 11:40 ] |
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| slob-air |
| Posted: Tue Jul 23, 2002 10:57 am |
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Site Admin
Joined: 27 Oct 2001
Posts: 63453
Location: S&B HQ
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For filling holes and cracks nothing works better than a toothpaste like mixture of white glue (Elmers/LePages/etc) and maple saw dust (a mix fine grind and powder is ideal).
As for the finish, a simple high quality clear coat is available in spray cans at most commercial paint suppliers these days... just make sure their cans are high quality -and do a test spray on the tail to make sure there's nothing wonkey on the deck that might react. It's always wise to give the dude at the paint store a good quizzing on their product as well (prep., optimal temperature, drying times, etc).
If you've never sprayed before - ask the paint-shop dude for tips on that as well.
It's best to hang the deck in a ventialted dust-free area and shoot it there. WSkake the hell out of the can and clear the nozzle by turning the can upside down and shooting into the corner for about 5 seconds.
Then begin to spray left to right, stop, return to the left and start the process again a little lower down. Make sure you're not getting too much material on the surface or it will run.
Follow the product directions in so far as flash time, re-coating, optimum temperatures and drying time. |
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| lush702 |
| Posted: Tue Jul 23, 2002 2:19 pm |
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Joined: 20 May 2002
Posts: 2206
Location: Gnashville TN
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thanks slob -
knew I could count on you guys; will post pics (B4 & after) as I go.
lush |
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| ukoldschool |
| Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2002 2:34 am |
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Joined: 13 Oct 2001
Posts: 7189
Location: London, UK
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Yeah, what slob said....
Also, you can buy an attachment for regular spray cans that looks like a gun trigger, these are much better to use than your finger on the can nozzle (if you use the finger method you run the risk of some paint buliding up on the tip of your pinky, which may drop down as youre spraying and splatter the paint). Remember that if something goes wrong with the paint-DONT PANIC!-wait until its really dry (1 or 2 days at least) and then you can get rid of runs/spills/paint reactions with some fine grade wet/dry paper.
For the delams, try drying the deck out completely, and then inject the delams with a large needle syringe filled with slightly watered down wood glue. Then plenty of G-cramps to squash it all back together. If its a bad delam, you may have to make it worse (by pulling out bits of splintered ply etc) before you make it better. Oh, and dont forget bits of ply under the feet of the clamps to protect the deck.
If its gonna be ridden then slobs hole filler is ideal. If its a wall hanger then car body filler is the king.
Good luck.
J. from the UK |
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| lush702 |
| Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2002 11:05 am |
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Joined: 20 May 2002
Posts: 2206
Location: Gnashville TN
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thanks ukos - just got the new grip from Alvin, scored some maple dust... did make the delams worse - to make better (cleared out the chips) - good idea about the trigger - taking the process slow (though it's gonna be a rider) - will post pics later this month. Thanks again!
lush |
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| donald20 |
| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 4:23 pm |
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Joined: 01 Aug 2002
Posts: 1075
Location: germany
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another important advice on spraying:
spray from left to right in the first step.spray from top to bottom in the second step.do it like this and you get a perfect finish layer.
best is to be too far away than being to close to the object |
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