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| joystickcriminal |
 Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 3:18 pm |
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Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 274
Location: York,PA
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Ok so I've been messing around with this ink, and was wondering when it cures does it have a hard scratching feel to it, or am I just over curing it, I can't seem to get a nice smooth coverage, and what kind of squeegee's are you guys using, I believe mine is 50 Durometers, but just doesn't seem to work that great, I tried a firmer one and got better results, what would you recomend?
thanks in advance guys, or girls, or mutants of the world!
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| thevagrant |
| Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 3:25 pm |
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Joined: 18 Mar 2003
Posts: 19
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| first question is are you using the proper mesh count for you screen. because softhand should be just that soft. almost like water based ink printing. as for squeegees you should be using a medium/flexible blade. |
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| joystickcriminal |
| Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 4:29 pm |
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Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 274
Location: York,PA
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| You know I was just thinking about that, I'm using 12xxmultifilament and I think I should be using 110 mono maybe? What do you think? |
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| ThrashCan |
| Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 7:41 pm |
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Joined: 16 Mar 2004
Posts: 1331
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I just hooked up a flat screen with 12xx mesh.
I got speedball water based acrylic paint but I dont think its gonna be very shiney or stick to the deck very well. I havnt tried it on a blank deck yet. What kinda paint do you guys recomend for that professional high gloss look.
I was thinkin I could get a clear glossy spray paint to make it shine and protect the paint. What do you think?
Thanks!
[ This Message was edited by: Useless Skate Co. on 2004-03-26 00:31 ] |
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| Drunk Engine |
| Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 12:24 pm |
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Joined: 11 Jul 2002
Posts: 765
Location: New Jersey!!
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| You can add Finesse plastisol to your inks it helps reduce the viscosity and will add to the softhand of the printed garment. I use 155 to 300 meshcount screens, it really depends on the detail you need on your prints, 300 is perfect for halftones and diffusion. I use 70 Durrometer squeegees in varying sizes. Proper pressure, squeegee angle and flooding will add to your softhand that you are looking for. As for curing the inks most people always over cure these inks and the prints become stiff. |
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| Stranglehold77 |
| Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 3:32 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 10 Apr 2002
Posts: 5437
Location: Victoria BC CANADA
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| The standard curing temp for plastisol is 300-320 degrees. |
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| Drunk Engine |
| Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 6:30 pm |
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Joined: 11 Jul 2002
Posts: 765
Location: New Jersey!!
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The only time I would use 110 meshcount would be for putting a base coat of white onto a dark garment, such as a sweatshirt because most sweatshirts ribbing is coarse and you need alot of ink in order to fill the ribbing of the material and to build a flat surface for the rest of the print.
[ This Message was edited by: Drunk Engine on 2004-03-28 18:31 ] |
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| Stranglehold77 |
| Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 6:55 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 10 Apr 2002
Posts: 5437
Location: Victoria BC CANADA
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I agree. For standard printing applications(a design with some detail, but not crazy halftones) I tend to use 140 or 155 mesh. 280 works great for process colors or other halftone detail, but you sure don't want to be pulling white through it.
110-125 is pretty much. like Engine said, just for laying down a white mask or printing on a loose knit.
Ty |
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| joystickcriminal |
| Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 11:17 pm |
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Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 274
Location: York,PA
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Cool, Thanks alot guys I'll try those mesh counts and see what happens, I forgot to mention I am using White ink, and figured maybe I should try between 160-180 mesh count? Would this be correct for white>
[ This Message was edited by: joystickcriminal on 2004-03-29 22:23 ] |
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| sk8markmartin |
| Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 6:06 pm |
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Joined: 18 Apr 2004
Posts: 16
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| hey i was wondering if you have to cure it or can you just let it dry. if you have to cure it then would i be able to use a heat gun or something like that. |
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