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| Sixman |
 Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 6:51 pm |
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Joined: 06 Nov 2002
Posts: 84
Location: Austin, TX
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As for the ink - if its really thick you may need to mix it w/a mixing bit (on a drill of course) and maybe add some reducer. NOTE: practice this first before doing an order. You can really f-it up if you haven't used reducer. W/our inks we don't have to mess w/that any more.
Sounds like the low-bleed it what you need. Speed and temp changes can only 'fix' things if you are using the right inks.
Sorry, when I said 'oven' I was referring to an apparel oven w/conveyor. Never tried to cure a shirt in the oven-oven but I would suggest using a flash cure (off the platten) if you can't get the funds for a conveyor.
Miles |
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| hellconcave |
| Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 7:05 pm |
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Joined: 21 Feb 2005
Posts: 230
Location: sweden
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| but do you only use the low bleed ink on hoods and sweatshirts not t-shirts? I mean can I go with lo bleed on everything I print or do I need to switch inks all the time? |
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| Fool's Gold |
| Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 8:55 pm |
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Joined: 10 Mar 2005
Posts: 284
Location: Ontario Canada
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| Not to be a dick, but isn't PADM-1027 the UNION BRIGHT COTTON WHITE, in which case it's NOT lo-bleed, PLHT white is the UNION DIAMOND WHITE. Lo-bleed inks have a blowing/puffing agent in them that prevents the dyes from polyester garments from leaching into the white ink thus tinting it the same colour and the shirt (white on red becomes pink on red, white on black becomes grey on black) The problem with lo bleed inks is that you can't add much reducers because it meddles with it's lo-bleed properties and opacity. There is also different amounts of puff in different brands, we recently printed some hoods and the ink puffed almost an 1/8th of an inch off the shirt! that was an ink called CASPER. We also use WILFLEX bright tiger. I always use lo-bleed on hoods that have polyester because I never want to replace a $3000 hoodie order because of some dy migration . .. total nightmare! |
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