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| Five Points Skateboards |
 Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 8:15 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 12 Mar 2003
Posts: 4167
Location: Columbus, OH
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It doesn't get it all, so I use a sander to get the rest of it smooth. It's not hard to use a sander. Just keep it moving. Mine come out looking perfect in the end. I agree though, there's got to be a quicker way of doing it somehow, with a router type attatchement. Maybe a pinrouter or something. I dunno. Anyone else want to chime in on this? OHIO?
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Tim
Five Points Skateboards |
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| waxux |
| Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 7:41 pm |
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Joined: 16 Nov 2003
Posts: 142
Location: Outer Banks NC
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| I've been talking with steven and haven't helped him much yet; But what if we figured out a way to clamp the router sans base in an overhand type of jig, like a pin router but way cheaper. Any thoughts? |
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| pennswood |
| Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 9:03 am |
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Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 213
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the best way to round the edges is with a 3/16 radius quarter round bit with a bearing. mount the router to a table just the size of the base. the bit should stick up out with the bottom of the radius flush with the top of the table. now the router is mounted and you move the board around it. we do about 400 decks per day this way it takes no more than 1 min each. they are perfect. it does require sanding after with the pnumatic drum sander just to smooth things up. we sand with the drum the entire edge all the way around. routers do not leave it smooth enough.
[ This Message was edited by: pennswood on 2003-12-05 09:07 ] |
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| Five Points Skateboards |
| Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 10:17 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 12 Mar 2003
Posts: 4167
Location: Columbus, OH
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Would you mind taking a pic for me? I don't understand how it'll get that "special" ares between the end of the concave and the kick of the nose/tail. Won't the base get in the way? Is your router base flat? A pick would be much appreciated.
Thanks a ton
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Tim
Five Points Skateboards |
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| DunnDiego |
| Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 11:19 am |
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Joined: 12 Jul 2003
Posts: 2817
Location: San Diego
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| pennswood |
| Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 10:21 pm |
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Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 213
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the router is upside down so the bit sticks up out of a table with a hole just big enough for the bit. then the bearing on top of the bit allows you to move the board around the bit and you cant cut to much. you dont lay the deck flat to rout the corners you hold it up and down like primo. start down a rail then turn the deck so the shape follows around the nose and tail.
all the photos i ever saw showed like the ones from premium, moving the router around the board. so i tried it that way. it never worked. i made curved router bases that sort of worked but it is very difficult. |
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| DunnDiego |
| Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 10:25 pm |
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Joined: 12 Jul 2003
Posts: 2817
Location: San Diego
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penns,
I tried that exact method(Primo-style cut) except I tried free-hand, no base. I gorfed the board, so maybe I should get/make a base.
Thanks! |
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| Five Points Skateboards |
| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 12:06 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 12 Mar 2003
Posts: 4167
Location: Columbus, OH
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Hey Pennswood
I think I understand what you mean. It seems to me like, if you don't have a very steady hand while manuevering the deck around the fixed router, that you will gouge the shit out of the deck. Seems like you'd have to tilt the board at the exact angle so the router doesn't cut into the edge of the deck. Am I right?
Thanks for the help, and a pic would be sweet if you can swing it. Or any other info to get my stupid ass to figure out a quicker way to do this.
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Tim
Five Points Skateboards |
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| pennswood |
| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 11:56 am |
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Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 213
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you do need some practice to get the speed and rythym right. also you can only go in one direstion against the bit or it will chew the shit out of the edge.
but if you get the bit with a bearing on top it is impossible to take to much of a cut. see the bottom of the radius of the bit must be flush with the table, then the deck can not drop to low on the radius of the bit, same with the bearing, this setup only allows the perfect radius to be cut. the rails are easy. when you come to the nose/tail/concave you just have to flow around the bend. we do the top of the deck first make sure its all done then move to the bottom of the deck.
this will not work for decks that have crazy side cuts. but for those sections you can lay the deck down. a deck is about 7/16" thick.
so us ea 3/16 quarter round with bearing. that wat your top cut goes almost half way the bottom the same. if you use 1/4 radius you will over cut from both sides and never get a smooth cut.
the drum sander you see in photos is air filled, you can run it semi soft, then when you sand edges it will contour around. there you go. that info took me years to figure out. i dont know why i just gave it away. i would like to put the manufacturing of decks back into the hands of skaters, not the chinese. so good luck. i would like to sell you guys uncuts if you need them, let me know.
[ This Message was edited by: pennswood on 2003-12-06 12:00 ] |
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| Annex Skates |
| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 10:33 pm |
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Joined: 12 Oct 2003
Posts: 113
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Hey pennswood Just wanted to let you know that the blank sample you sent is sick! I painted it screened it myself and went up to 3rd lair to rip up the bowl and street course. awesome shape, strong...
thanks, Paul |
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