SkullandBonesSkateboards.com Forum Index » SCREEN PRINTING » First time putting emultion on a screen |
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mkelty |
Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 1:13 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL

Joined: 06 Oct 2006
Posts: 3644
Location: Springfield, OR
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Just a quick question of you guys regarding scooping in the well side. I was taught to do that solely for the sake of smoothing out anything that squeezed through, and that you want the majority of the emulsion to end up on the bottom, nearest the negative for the best resolution.
Modskin and Goldfish, you've got more emulsion in the well than on the outside? I would think that in addition to the resolution, you'd also be scraping your stencil off with each pass...
Also, I was taught that you want them to dry on edge, not flat, as you want gravity to pull the excess away from the screen, not pooling in the mesh. |
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auragreg |
Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:41 am |
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Joined: 31 Aug 2004
Posts: 2382
Location: Highland, Michigan, USA, Earth
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ok - everything went smooth.
I had a dvd from the company i bought from, watched it again, and then followed the tips you guys gave me.
The emulsion had the seperate diazo, so I mixed that , and cleaned the screens friday night for emulsion on saturday night.
now - I did 2 coats on the print side. one on the squeegee side. the dvd actually only recommended doing one on each side. But i figured I'd take all the advice and do 2 coats ... but I thought that the second would be on the print side. So I guess we'll see what happens.
The first problem i ran into was that my scoop coater was too long to go the length when the screen was vertical, but a little short to go horizontal. My print will be within the length of the scoop, so I just went horizontal. I guess I'll have to buy a smaller scoop.
So now I need to expose em and see what time frames I need. I'm using a single halogen work light - 18" off the frame. In the past I did 12 minutes and it worked well. But that was for pre-emulsioned frames.
And my dvd also said to dry them flat.... print side down. |
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badgoldfish |
Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:59 pm |
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Joined: 20 Sep 2005
Posts: 406
Location: kalamazoo-michigan
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mkelty,
I agree , you do need the best concentration on the print side to make a good gasket seal against your shirt or whatever printing. And 2 coats is prob sufficient,
As greg's VDV says , i've always been told to dry them flat with print side down, being in michigan i use a de-humidifier to help them dry quicker.
The thicker the emulsion layer becomes the more ink will be laid down, sometimes for an underbase i will add an extra layer or two on the print side(shirt)after the first coating has dried. Let that dry add some time to expose and it gets some real good solid ink deposits with the finer meshes on shirts.
There's no right or wrong, printmaking is sorta a grey area mostly whatever works.
I recently had to get a new scoop coater and it made a big difference, unfortunately my flash unit took the final dump. Element and the temp control went out.
parts to fix=240.00, bought new head unit with infrared blanket 343.00 shipped. but it's so much nicer |
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masonmayhem |
Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 8:07 pm |
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 1376
Location: Redneck Riviera, AB
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what i like to do is...
first i coat the back side of the screen, then i coat the squeegee side of the screen, then i go back to the back side and run the trough across it to pick up the excess. 2 coats works pretty good for me.
if i have a screen with yellow mesh, i just coat the back side of the screen once. |
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newrepublicsteve |
Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 12:48 am |
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Joined: 13 Nov 2004
Posts: 674
Location: Birmingham
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we do a 1/1,
have for years...
once you find what works best for you don't mess with it
and we also dry flat print side down...
our shop is in a humid area so a dehumidifier is essential in our dark room
we also have 3 fans set up around our screens
to increase the air flow around our screens and speed up drying time
we can coat a batch (about 12-15 screens) and be ready to burn them in about an hour
we use an emulsion that is created specifically for black light uv and we burn 2 screens at a time in 27 seconds
when ue sude the old shop lights we were at about 18" and 12 minutes
then we got 2 lights and it dropped to 6 minutes... |
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sheltered |
Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 6:58 pm |
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Joined: 16 Sep 2005
Posts: 86
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Which emulsion is formulated for black light? |
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auragreg |
Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 6:29 am |
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Joined: 31 Aug 2004
Posts: 2382
Location: Highland, Michigan, USA, Earth
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just exposed the screen over the weekend ...
12 minutes was perfect! So far so good! Thanks for all the info. |
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kirb-slider |
Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 7:41 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL

Joined: 20 Feb 2009
Posts: 6219
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now show us the prints. |
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auragreg |
Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 8:30 am |
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Joined: 31 Aug 2004
Posts: 2382
Location: Highland, Michigan, USA, Earth
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kirb-slider wrote: now show us the prints.
this one won't be that exciting .. it's a T-shirt logo for my brother's landscaping business.
I have 2 other screens ready to go tho for my next deck design. My first 2 color deck! I'm psyched for that. |
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auragreg |
Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:25 am |
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Joined: 31 Aug 2004
Posts: 2382
Location: Highland, Michigan, USA, Earth
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Just burned screens for first TWO COLOR design! With halftones! I'm psyched. |
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