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| skinny |
 Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:00 pm |
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Joined: 12 Sep 2004
Posts: 2706
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I did it today.
I made a router that gets all the way to the bottom of the kicks, with no burned edges.
I will be using it alot more. This is a BIG one for the skateboard makers out there.
I'll see if I can post a video soon. |
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| devotid |
| Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:53 pm |
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Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 26
Location: saginaw, MI
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| YES! i have to see this. please. ive tried about ten different tools and jigs. i even trid to flex the deck flatter while routing. didnt really work. i seen a study a while back were a bunch of college kids tried to put their heads together on a group project on this exact topic. CONGRATS. |
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| Dan |
| Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 4:48 am |
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Joined: 11 May 2005
Posts: 45
Location: USA
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| yop I have that too to the bottom of kicks with no burned edges.. One boards takes me +- 45 sec. |
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| pennswood |
| Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:40 am |
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Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 213
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| pretty sure i laid out these plans in detail before on here. |
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| Five Points Skateboards |
| Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:48 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 12 Mar 2003
Posts: 4167
Location: Columbus, OH
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| I use a porter cable hand router w/ a 1/4 round bit with a bearing and have no issues at all getting all the way through the bends of the kicks. |
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Tim
Five Points Skateboards |
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| skinny |
| Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:18 am |
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Joined: 12 Sep 2004
Posts: 2706
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Ok,
I used it yeaterday.
Not a super fast fix-all for rounding edges. However it makes the work much easier.
Not a router table, hand held. I converted a trimmer I already had with a head I made.
It makes the sanding I have to do minimal. I am sure there are tons of different versions out there that work, but this is as close to solving all the problems I have had in the past, as I have gotten yet.
I posted this after my initial tests yesterday, and I can tell I am going to have to make a few more. The edges of the deck will wear it out quick and there could be a varitation over time from the wear and tear.
I know sometimes I post things like I "fixed" everything. Not the case yet. I can see room for improvement. |
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| Everide |
| Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:27 pm |
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Joined: 16 Apr 2006
Posts: 81
Location: MidWest
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I've got an idea that I'm going to give a try here with the edges. I just bought the materials a couple hours ago.
I'm going to customize the bit. If it works as planned (yeah right) it shouldn't leave any burn marks and won't have a problem before the kick. |
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| cortex |
| Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 8:35 am |
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Joined: 12 Aug 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Belgium
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| Rounding the edges really is the hardest part of skateboard making. At the moment I use a standard router I borrowed from a friend, but afterwards I have to sand for at least 10 minutes per board to get the edges right. Being located in Europe doesn't really help to get the appropriate tools. But guys like Skinny and others have already made a difference for me. thanks |
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Cortex Skateboards
www.cortexskateboards.be |
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| PlayGod |
| Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:15 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 05 Nov 2003
Posts: 3882
Location: Dirty South
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| devotid |
| Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 12:12 pm |
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Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 26
Location: saginaw, MI
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we have two of these setups in the link in our woodshop http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0518
you can get it without the stand and stuff for around 200.00 i think. this grizzly stuff is purely the small shop answer. We bought it for the drum sander, then realized how AMAZING the flapper sander really was.
We band saw our blanks first leaving an 1/8th inch to route to perfect shape with templates and a 1" shaft shaping router table. , then router the edges with a 3/16 or 1/2" radius bit(remember these are wood wakeskates for water and are thicker and larger than Skateboards plus we have a couple diffwerent thicknesses ) then.. after the board is to shape we use the air filled pneumatic sanding drum to address the small area that doesnt get routed in the concave /kicktail area. it takes some practice but isn't really that hard to master. oh yeah make sure you've got a good grip on it otherwise is a 30" shop missle (i wear rubber gloves for traction you all know how slippery a well sanded fresh deck is)
but the whole point of this rambling is that i figured out that the flapper sander that comes on the other end of the pneu drum sander is the most used tool in our shop now. once the board is all routed you can completely finish the whole thing with JUST the flap sander with some 180-220 grit on her. The thing makes hella noise and i reccomend wearing some goggles (whew dust storm without a dust collector) We dont use ANY hand sanders anymore. this thing make the edges feel like a dream and it also does the top/bottom surfaces also. DONE ready for sealer clear and graphics.
my .02$
kevin |
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