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| Cappy |
 Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:42 am |
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Joined: 13 Sep 2005
Posts: 11580
Location: Cloud cuckoo land
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Alice new pic and edit after done work post!
So far done:
Problems:
1. Some Colors still not match / look original
2. Cat Stripes
3. Resize from *.bmp into Boardsize without quality lost. |
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| clchamp1 |
| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:50 am |
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Joined: 29 Oct 2005
Posts: 345
Location: WASATCH...
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For what it's worth, I do this kinda stuff for a living...
Gimme a high rez image and I can create the color seperations. I have just begun a couple restorations and would be happy to help - as I see it, in the near future I'll be needing some of your help too.
For instance, I'm doing a retso on a Roskopp 3 (with the blacklight paints) and have decided to clean up the graphics by hand - but cannot figure out what types of paint to use..(regular acrylics are not matching)... any help?
Whoever will be making the screens - will it be easier to use Vector Art or Raster art??? If you don't know the difference then I doubt it will make a diff. Let me know if I can help. |
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| Rob_B |
| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:53 am |
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Joined: 18 Feb 2005
Posts: 2250
Location: Florida
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You'll probably want to use vector art, that should keep the lines clean when you print and do the seperations. I would do it all in Illustrator if you have the time.
And if someone completes a large-sized version with color seperations please let me know  |
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Rob B. |
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| clchamp1 |
| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 12:04 pm |
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Joined: 29 Oct 2005
Posts: 345
Location: WASATCH...
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Cappy - I think you're totally going in the right direction BUT your art will not be useable at a large scale at all!!! So sit tight if you expect to have your efforts used here - it won't enlarge worth dookie. Unless someone can get a large scale image we're out of luck.
OR.
I can recreate the graphics in Illustator or Freehand. It could take a coulple weeks, but we can blow it up the size of a billboard without distortion. So. If this is gonna happen, I'll put in the effort. |
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| Cappy |
| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 12:10 pm |
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Joined: 13 Sep 2005
Posts: 11580
Location: Cloud cuckoo land
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| skinny |
| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:06 pm |
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Joined: 12 Sep 2004
Posts: 2706
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I'm doing a retso on a Roskopp 3 (with the blacklight paints) and have decided to clean up the graphics by hand - but cannot figure out what types of paint to use..(regular acrylics are not matching)... any help?
Here is a possible soulution, maybe.
if you are silkscreening, use a base extender and "speedball" white. This can make a base color to mix your own neon colors. Regular acrylic paint is also used for potery, and ceramics. It comes in lots of neon and bright colors. Once you mix your colors, print your run Keep it small. After the last color is screened and the piece is dry, clearcoat the surface with a thin sealer coat. If at all possible see if you can get some kem-aqua clear. If not look for a true laquer or a modified polyurethane and thin it a little, using a paint gun make 2 thin coats. |
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| SkaterBonds |
| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:49 pm |
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Joined: 14 Jul 2005
Posts: 5976
Location: Denver
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???!!!????  I had no idea that there was such a demand! I haven't been in here for a month or more. I almost forgot about it. 
I don't work in computer for colors, I just go off of the real deal and sit there with a paint mixing scale, a heat gun, some neon colors a pad and pencil for my formulas in 10ths of a gram for a few hours...
I've got some things going down here involving some transfers from an NOS...
You know where to find me.  |
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| clchamp1 |
| Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 1:01 am |
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Joined: 29 Oct 2005
Posts: 345
Location: WASATCH...
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SkaterBonds:
Actually I just checked out your Roskopp restoration ( I don't think you can even call it a restoration)... amazing. I was considering doing the artwork for this Grosso/Alice in Illustrator or Freehand (which I use 8 hours a day and am pretty fast), but with the stipple shading it would be ridiculous - how many colors were required for your Roskopp? Just so we can get an idea. Cuz the Grosso Alice would probably have at lest three times as many screens. And from what I understand - the color seprations can be printed out and a screen made for each color.
What would you recommend? Doing this particular Grosso deck the way YOU did your Roskopp face would be far too involved. Not that your project wasn't, but really - this would take it to another level...
By the way are you an artist as well as an auto/custom painter? You have the patience of a true artist. Have you set up your site yet detailing your work??? I'm a newbie and haven't done a thorough search of the forum yet to find out.
Skinny:
I'm doing it by hand (just touch up) so color matching is totally critical. If I were pulling a 100% sandown redo I would totally go your route and do a whole run... |
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| Cappy |
| Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 4:07 am |
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Joined: 13 Sep 2005
Posts: 11580
Location: Cloud cuckoo land
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SkaterBonds wrote:
I've got some things going down here involving some transfers from an NOS...
If your next resto is a alice, i dont know about any blanks from that shape, maybe skinny can do a little re-run on them. And skatetilldeath can send you his for reprinting and everybody would be fine. |
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| SkaterBonds |
| Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 2:53 pm |
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Joined: 14 Jul 2005
Posts: 5976
Location: Denver
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The alice isn't complicated. Each color just means one more screen per color. Not a big deal. Not sure if you've ever looked at a Grosso Toybox in person, but that's my next restoration. It's almost 80% halftones (in the ragdoll, etc.) and I should be able to tackle that project no problem. The alice is a walk in the park compared to the face and the toybox. Nice, honest lines, a little stipple and crosshatching here and there, nothing major.
I color match things all day. I do auto body collision repair almost every day (well, up until my accident) and most of the cars I do are pearl golds (hardest color to match on a car) and I've never had a color mismatch. You just have to know your color wheel.
I deal with a few more factors in color matching that skateboards don't even need (metallic level, metallic layout and particle size, metallic color change or "flop" from a 90 to a 45 degree change on the panel), the list goes on and on. Matching non-metallic colors is a lot easier.
If you're doing a hand touch up (which I'm going to be doing on a Roskopp target 2) You can apply the same theory of making transfers and using them to complete your restoration, minus the stipple.
I can show you some stuff that I'm doing for BigB85 and mealsonwheels.
I'll be making a complete set of screens for the toybox and the alice regardless. The best way to restore anything, be it a car, a bike, a skateboard, a tire (yes people restore old tires for concourse car restos) is to follow the manufacturers assembly and production proceedures as closely as possible and document whatever is being restored as much as possible before starting.
I'll be doing a resto article on the Toyboxes (I'm doing 2 of them), covering the halftones and everything as soon as these face decks are out the door.
I'll keep everyone currnet on what's up.
Back to the face decks... |
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