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| del*13 |
 Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:22 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 12164
Location: Witch Hazel Farm
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The other day I painted a deck with two different brands of rattle cans. Krylon and Valspar. I was doing a fade thing and neither brand had both of the colors I needed. I ASSUMED they were both enamel....neither one said what it was on the can. Well....when I put the Valspar on top of the Krylon, all hell broke loose and the paint krinkled all up. How do I tell what brands can be used or not used together? Why don't they list what kind of paint they are on the can?
Thanks. |
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| scar09 |
| Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:08 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 29 Mar 2010
Posts: 975
Location: Ohio
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Hey Del. The only thing I can tell ya' is to try and use the same brands for the entire graphic, if possible. I've experimented with a couple different brands (like Valspar, Krylon etc) with mixed results...I did experience some "crackling" with those two in combination with other brands. The brand I've had the most success with (see the new SolDog) is a brand I found at Michael's called Design Master. It's super easy to control and has a nice "velvety" feel and look, while still maintaining the color depth. So anyway, just stick with one brand (again, if you can) and you'll probably have a ton of success. I'm (by no means) an expert, so I hope that helps! Take it easy!
Peace,
scar09 |
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| kirb-slider |
| Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:29 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 20 Feb 2009
Posts: 6219
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My father always told me the one thing you NEVER skimp on is spray paint.
It's krylon all the way. |
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| PAWN |
| Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:32 pm |
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Joined: 06 Jul 2005
Posts: 4175
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there's a good trick I picked up a long time ago when I used to spray graffiti...
figure out the color you want, if the company doesn't make that color, then figure out what colors mixed together with make the color you want. Then grab those two colors and a third that you don't care about. Empty out the can you don't care about...completely empty it. Then grab yourself a straw from a wd40 can and toss it on the one that is empty. Now hook up one of the colors that is full and make sure the empty can is upside down. Now spray the full can into the empty one...not all of it though. The grab your other color and do the same thing. You gotta play with ratios but it's one way to get the color you want and keeping it one brand so the paint will not krinkle. |
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| lox |
| Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:33 pm |
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Joined: 22 Jul 2011
Posts: 75
Location: phx
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generally, and i mean GENERALLY, compatibility comes down to the solvent in the paint
if one product specifies that it 'cleans up with mineral spirits', for example, chances are reasonably good that it will work with another product that 'cleans up with mineral spirits'
fwiw:
things that 'clean up with mineral spirits' or paint thinner (same thing) generally dry slowly
things that 'clean up with lacquer thinner' generally dry fast
mixing things that dry slowly and things that dry fast is generally not a good idea
mixing things that dry fast with other things that dry fast is almost always a good combo |
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| del*13 |
| Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 5:59 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 12164
Location: Witch Hazel Farm
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Thanks for all the good advise. I guess the most logical way to avoid problems is to simply not mix brands, which I knew, but ignored. Lesson learned.  |
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| 8ftbed |
| Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:21 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 07 Nov 2010
Posts: 985
Location: over the rainbow
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My sentiments exactly as far as staying with the same brand.
Krylon also tends to be my go-to rattle can. Consistent and also because it's readily available at Wally world and relatively inexpensive. I'd probably shift to Montana if it was close and the full pallet of colors was available.
I've done many decks. When I first started I was finishing with brush on. JHC!! I had several mid-winter, borked up, frustrating results. Valspar was the the cause of a couple of hangovers. I had issues with polycrylic over certain spray paints. Hence finally settling on Krylon. I had crap results with the spray variety of Valspar too.
Orange!! I don't know what it is about that color but it seems to take longer to cure and has resulted in some do overs when I clear coated it too soon and it'd never set after that. Go to lay grip and lift a piece back up to reposition and the uncured orange released from the deck. 
Do we get pics? I like seeing rattle can creations. |
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| del*13 |
| Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:16 pm |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 12164
Location: Witch Hazel Farm
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| skateight |
| Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 5:41 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 2857
Location: Earth
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| Just a thought, you'll get better results with an airbrush. |
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| krayola |
| Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 12:29 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 11 Feb 2007
Posts: 15449
Location: R'lyeh 47°9′S 126°43′W / 47.15°S 126.717°W / -47.15; -126.717
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I'm insulted you didn't ask me.
Aghast!
Shocked.
Valspar is Urethane Enamel or can be Latex Enamel, depending, need to see the label since there is two lines and some states allow only one of the two.
Krylon is Oil Enamel Based Enamel.
Rustoleum: Polymer Enamel alkyd based paint.
One is for painting decks, furniture and wood slats(Valspar) and Krylon is designed for wood and metal and is mostly non reactive since it's a high grade oil based product without derivative junk.
Valspar is essential car paint but can be used on wood, metal. You will notice it has a tangy sweet hairspray like smell, that is the acetone in the thinner including there signature hardener.
You can mix the two, just in a certain order and when one has out gassed completely aka dry.
Krylon and Rustolium yes but Rusto has polymer that needs to be scuffed up first otherwise Krylon wont stick in most cases.
Valspar First, then slight scuffing they Krylon.
Krylon will go atop anything but not with the new Fan Tip Nozzle. The reason for this is it has a hardner and medium to push it out the can to assure a fine mist are so chemical reactive they will reactivate other paint by other brands below it. The two elements cause rippling in under paints if not Krylon. Urethane will buckle, including marine varnish will bubble.
Krylon besides a few colors are chemical inferior to Krylon made for the traditional plunger tip.
The thing is some of those paints will dry to the touch but the oils persist and can become reactivated causing bubbles, ripples and or caking or actually curling up.
The oil in Krylon takes 3 days to harden. The oil in Valspar 7 days and Rustoleum just about never if it doesn't have a metal or stone reactive base to start catalyzing to.
Fun fact, Rusoleum dries under water. |
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