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| hank1113 |
 Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:25 am |
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Joined: 30 Apr 2009
Posts: 3472
Location: Richmond Va
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nice! I built a tip to tail screen from the DIY plans on the net but it is too short for my liking. gonna make it longer and wider and then attempt to burn an image.
at the moment I am making a rig just for doing tail or nose graphics. I dig the older style prints with separate images on the nose and tail. I plan on doing the tip to tail again after I get done playing around with my nose/tail rig.
hank |
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| kc_curtis |
| Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:44 pm |
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Joined: 07 Feb 2008
Posts: 28
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Hank, I agree on the length, needs more room at the ends, I am going to add about 4 to 6 inches to my next one. My width is 13 inches and seems to be good. When I lock my frame over a deck (I made curved screen frame using the decks I was printing as a stencil for the curved parts) it is tight every where on the deck with the exception of about a half inch from the edge of the deck where it sits about a quarter inch above the deck...
I used the cheap speedball ink for my first run, now I am going to move to Nazdar 2700. Any tips on how to get the ink to flow better (mixture ratio??) and be more glossy?
I know my technique for spreading the ink was lacking, I found some great info last night on proper direction, etc.
I also have an issue with ink getting on the bottom of my screen so I have to wipe it off prior to doing the next deck? Is this a common problem?
Thanks Hank, |
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| hank1113 |
| Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:56 pm |
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Joined: 30 Apr 2009
Posts: 3472
Location: Richmond Va
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| with the 2700 being water based you have to flood your print area in between pulls or it will dry super fast. I dont use anything to thin it since I only do 10 boards or so at a time. as I do more I will be adding thinner to keep it from drying. as far as increasing the gloss, I am not sure what to tell you. some of the other nazdar inks are glossier but require more effort and what not to clean them up. I like the 2700 since it is quick to clean and not to pricey! |
Last edited by hank1113 on Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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| hank1113 |
| Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:59 pm |
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Joined: 30 Apr 2009
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Location: Richmond Va
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kc_curtis wrote:
I also have an issue with ink getting on the bottom of my screen so I have to wipe it off prior to doing the next deck? Is this a common problem?
that is from your screen touching the deck. set it up .25" above the deck you are screening, grip the squeegee by the blade and have at it. it takes some time to get use to but it can be done. you may have to experiment with screen tensions to get it to where you can screen "easily" but have enough tension to keep the detail. I get my flat screens stretched at "low" tension (8 newtons) and after a few runs they work pretty good.
hank |
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| kc_curtis |
| Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:36 pm |
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Joined: 07 Feb 2008
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The way I have my "rig" set up now, when the screen is clamped, it is stretched tight over a deck, then I have to hold down on the frame, release the clamps and quickly lift the screen off the deck.....surely this could not be causing me any problems [he says laughing].
If I don't clamp the screen down over the deck, it only rests on the deck in the very center, and my art is off to one edge...would I be better off not using the clamps? (I know, just try it right??? LOL)
Also, do I need to "bake" the decks after they are inked to set the ink in the wood?
And on the frames being longer... would you just continue the angle of the tail/nose, or would you flatten it out? I am thinking just continue the angle on down a few more inches but that could get "interesting" with adjusting the setup for that tall of a screen?
Thanks Hank, and your avatar makes me hungry!!!! |
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| ivescreenedforless |
| Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 11:40 am |
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Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 150
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kc_curtis wrote: The way I have my "rig" set up now, when the screen is clamped, it is stretched tight over a deck, then I have to hold down on the frame, release the clamps and quickly lift the screen off the deck.....surely this could not be causing me any problems [he says laughing].
If I don't clamp the screen down over the deck, it only rests on the deck in the very center, and my art is off to one edge...would I be better off not using the clamps? (I know, just try it right??? LOL)
Also, do I need to "bake" the decks after they are inked to set the ink in the wood?
And on the frames being longer... would you just continue the angle of the tail/nose, or would you flatten it out? I am thinking just continue the angle on down a few more inches but that could get "interesting" with adjusting the setup for that tall of a screen?
Thanks Hank, and your avatar makes me hungry!!!!
Hey Curtis, I just want to toss my 2cents in here.
Just like printing Tshirts or anything else you need a little off contact. You only want the screen to make contact where the squeegee is applying pressure and then it snaps back up leaving a nice clean print. You could still use the same setup but just put something under the ends of the frame to raise it up about 1/8". You don't want to mash the screen onto the deck. Too much space and you can lay down too much ink and make a mess. This is why having the right screen shape is so important.
2700 series ink will air dry fast, no need to "bake" it. A flood coat after each print is very important or you will clog your screen with dry ink. You may need to go with a higher mesh count, although without thinning it it's not too runny.
If you extend the screen I would just keep the same angles. Obviously this would call for some rig adjustments.
Just keep messing with it and posting on here with your questions and results. |
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| kc_curtis |
| Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:28 am |
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Joined: 07 Feb 2008
Posts: 28
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Thanks Hank and Ivescreenedforless! I am going to do the height adjustments with the current screen and then build a new frame as stated above. I don't know what I was thinking having my screen laid tight onto the deck for printing but....now I know better thanks to you kats and HeroSk8 who has been a totally kool kat! He gave me a ton of screen and some capliary film....I can't use the film on the curved screens but it will be nice on any flat screens for between the truck only prints.
Probably a week or so before I make the new screen but I am hoping to make height adjustments to current setup and go at it again this week / weekend.
I'll keep you updated. |
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| Terry Synnott |
| Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:47 pm |
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Joined: 13 Oct 2004
Posts: 37
Location: New Bedford, MA
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| hank1113 |
| Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 7:11 am |
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Joined: 30 Apr 2009
Posts: 3472
Location: Richmond Va
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how are you exposing your screens? would like to see that.
Zarosh (http://www.platipusskateboards.com/) hit me up on facebook and dropped a nice tip... said to coat your films in mineral spirits to get them to stick to the screens... squeegee off the excess... havnt tried it or picked his brain about it but since he is doing a ton of of tip to tail prints for consolidated I am sure it works once you figure it out! |
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"the smaller operations are born upon discontent with the current big manufacturers. we are skateboarders for skateboarders, not business men looking for that dollar to sell a graphic to..."-Richard Kirby |
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| Terry Synnott |
| Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 4:32 pm |
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Joined: 13 Oct 2004
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Location: New Bedford, MA
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